MdeM Update: The next few weeks.

Hello All!

Things have been a little busy recently, so no new posts have been updated since my Basque Country trip two weeks ago.
A brief summary of what has happened since:

The weekend after, I was joined by my parents visiting from the United States. We toured Madrid in style before making our way to Barcelona for my second visit. There, I returned to Madrid as my parents remained to board a Mediterranean Sea cruise!

This weekend, I stayed in Madrid, enjoying what I like to call my "Typical Madrid Weekend." It included watching political protests, good Spanish food, walks around some nice parks, an awesome soccer match between the two best teams in Madrid, the Madrid nightlife, and a bullfight.

In the mean time, I am finalizing my preparations for my next big trip!
From the 1st to the 5th of May, I will spend the whole time...
... in the most awesome island of...

IBIZA!

Describing Ibiza is a little difficult. I had heard about Ibiza before arriving in Spain, which should be a statement to its fame.

The trip is being organized by the wonderful ESN group from my university here, in conjunction with nearly every major university in Madrid. Hundreds of students are going.

Here is a video that should give you an idea of Ibiza.

I have nothing to hide at this point...
I'M GOING TO IBIZA!

Regarding the blog, the weeks after Ibiza consist of many exams, so I will probably dedicate time to studying. I will write some more posts later and keep everyone updated as things progress.

Enjoy and thanks for reading!

Cheers!

-Miguel

"Vamos a la playa" in the Basque Country

Yeah... like... yeah....

The Basque Country is one of the must see parts of Spain. While I was familiar with its renowned beauty when I arrived in Spain, convincing myself to visit involved a combination of events. First, the American living in Madrid (who I met in Krakow) recommended the region highly. Second, one of my classmates mentioned the fame of the region's food. Finally, the ever wonderful ESN was organizing a trip there. With all of the fun from the last ESN organized trip to Barcelona, I decided to buy the ticket last minute, right before it sold out.

The plan for the trip was simple: we would visit Bilbao, San Sebastián, and an outlying Madrid city of Burgos.

Appreciating the early morning departure from the Atocha station (compared with our normal departures in the middle of the night) we departed by bus. I was going on the trip with my Italian friend Dario. We passed the four hour bus ride while catching some more sleep and talking. Also on the trip were some familiar faces from Barcelona and other students I know.

For every bus ride, especially in the light of day, I draw comparisons to my previous bus rides to and from school in Indiana. The never ending corn fields of Indiana are replaced here with rolling hills, vineyards, forests, and picturesque Spanish towns. Quite a change in scenery.

Bilbao

Approaching Bilbao, our highway was weaving through the low lying mountains that border the city. W first drove around the city, eventually passing both banks of the river. From there, we got our first glimpse of the most famous landmark in Bilbao: the Guggenheim Museum of Bilbao. For this reason alone we were visiting the city, basically.

Dropped off at the museum, we were a tad disappointed that the clear and sunny skies turned gray. Our priority after the long bus ride: food. Joining some mutual friends (another American, a Polish girl, a Russian girl, and a French girl) we departed for the Casco Viejo (Old Town) district of the city, home to the best restaurants.

Cloudy skies in Bilbao

Old Town of Bilbao

Food is done a little differently in the Basque country. Tapas are their main tradition, though they are not called tapas but Pintxos. Remember, people are not speaking Castellano here (Spanish as we know it) but Basque. The origin of the Basque language is unknown and has been described (to me) as "Spanish gibberish."
We followed the river and crossed the infamous Zubizuir (Basque translation 'white bridge'), known for many who died falling from the bridge before railings were installed (fun fact!). The old town began near a park, where we could admire the Arriaga Theater, the train station across the river, and the exterior of Plaza Nuevo, their equivalent to the Plaza Mayor. Here, we consulted my guidebook for where to eat.

Getting turned around by the cathedral using the small map in my guidebook, we finally arrived at our lunch destination: Xukela Bar. We discussed with the demonstrative bartender about the bountifully displayed pintxos on the bar counter. Confirming the guidebook description, every pintxo for only 1.60 eur, a good price anywhere. We all picked out our selection and each a glass of Basque rose wine. For myself, three pintxos of a corned beef/ham, mixed crab in sauce, and roast peppers on a type of fish. We had discussed our wine order with an elder patron of the bar. He spent a long time talking with the Polish girl and eventually bought all of us a bottle of the same wine we ordered. Basque country hospitality at its finest! Of course, the pintxos were amazing. As I have said in the past, my guidebook is never wrong.

Pintxos!

Good luck....

After figuring out the bathroom signs written in Basque, we returned back to the Guggenheim museum for our tour. The self guided tour was accompanied by an individual audioguide. The museum, actually, is more renowned by art critics for the building and not the actual art collection. In collaboration with the Guggenheim collection, the museum works rotate among other museums. The only permanent collection is housed in the largest exhibition space; a collection of room-sized steel structures. Much like a monument park, the artist encourages people to walk inside the large steel shapes, titled "Matter of Time." To certainly not my surprise  the collection is sponsored by ArcelorMittal, an American steel company.

Inside the museum

"Matter of Time" structures 

Mock up of the structures

The other galleries feature mainly contemporary or modern art. The largest collection was of European art created before, during, and after WWII, including pieces by Picasso (having lived in Nazi-occupied Paris). I mainly wandered the galleries on my own, occasionally encountering another student. On this particular day many French high school students were visiting the museum.

Art of LED text on columns 

I checked my printed itinerary about when to leave. Our departure time was for 5:30 pm on our guide, though I did remember something about a change of departure, but was not sure. I used my excess time to wander around the museum exterior. At the main entrance stands the over-sized "Puppy," a dog made of flowers, in full bloom for this time of year. I walked down a nearby bridge for some more photos.

Puppy

The ship resembling exterior

At this time, I started receiving calls from unknown numbers. They were from the ESN officers, asking where the heck I was! Apparently, they had told us a 5:00 pm departure and written 5:30 pm by mistake. I got to the bus by 5:25 pm by running. Greeted by the stares of my seated companions and applause as I approached my friends, I was relieved to take my seat in the back of the bus.

In another two hours we arrived in San Sebastian. This coastal city would be our home for the majority of the trip. By this time, the clouds had firmly set in; we appreciated our luck in getting such 'nice' weather. Following the Urmela river into the Old Town of San Sebastian, we exited the bus and found our hostel. Room arrangements were made on the bus; my roommates were my friend Dario, Mark, a German guy, a Thai guy, and a Finnish girl.
I met up with the lunch group for a walk around the city. Our hostel was near the Mont Urgull, one of the highest points of the town with a historic defensive castle at the top. We walked around the base of the Mont, right on the ocean. We were weary of the breakwater walls, with water waves occasionally falling on our elevated sidewalk. We passed through the port area of the city, stopping briefly at a bar for a beer and sandwich (salmon!) for 1.5 eur.
Dinner was included in our trip. With a light rain settling in, the ESN organizers ordered taxis to drive everyone across town to the restaurant, though we had to pay the fare. As I have complained about ESN organized meals in the past (see: Barcelona), I will fully say our meal that evening was good and representative of the region. Given sufficient bottles of wine and water for each table, we were all served individual dishes of seafood paella. Already filling, another fish dish was next. Completely full, I nibbled on the desert cake. All very good, and very filling. Some drinks at a bar completed the evening.


Next day. Sunny. 70 F. San Sebastian. Beach.

Let's do this!

The only item on our itinerary that day was a guided tour of the city. We first drove around the city in our bus, with our tour guide pointing out the Kursaal convention center, surfing beach, Urmela river, Santa Clara island, and mount Igeldo overlooking the city from the west. The bus drove along the La Concha beach, regarded as one of the nicest in Spain. Sweet. As we noticed, the tour guide explained that youth league soccer matches are held on the beach in the morning low tide. Among the dozen matches being held, we even saw one team score a goal.

The contemporary Kursall contention center

We got off at the base of Mount Igeldo and followed a beach walk to the end. There at a viewing area for the ocean stood metal statues. We all took group photos here.

After the tour, the whole day was ours. Meeting up with my regular group, food was the obvious priority. Good news: San Sebastián is the culinary capital of the Basque Country! Following my guidebook (never wrong...), we found the best pintxos bar in the old town: Goiz-Argi. Given the track record of my book, it was amazing. We ordered three rounds of pintxos, mainly the grilled shrimp ('gambas'). We all agreed they were great. Following the locals, we ate while standing on the sidewalk, enjoying the weather. I promised myself to eat at more than one place, finding another recommended bar nearby even as everyone else was full. There, at Borda-Berri, I had a goat cheese and plum pintxo for a sweeter conclusion to lunch.

So good!

Feeling like a walk, we decided to walk up the Mount Urgull. The direct route up didn't take too long, but was a little tiring. The tree-covered path provided shade and views toward the city center and beach. We found a number of viewing areas along the way, where many pictures were taken. Locals were also out, enjoying picnics on grass covered areas in full sun. We made our way to the castle at the top. Entrance to the museum was free and allowed access to the castle top, featuring a prominent statue of Jesus, visible from almost anywhere in the city below. Many more photos were taken here.

Castle at the top of the hill

Exiting, we found a viewing area facing the ocean. We all took turns posing on a small stone overhang, with little to protect any of us from a nasty fall into the ocean below. Even as a pilot, I am very afraid of unprotected heights!

After our viewing excursion, there was only one thing on our minds: Beach! Leaving the girls behind (who wanted to explore more of the city), Dario, Mark, and I set off for the beach. Borrowing Mark's extra swimsuit (thanks!), we walked to La Concha.

Normally, I never describe myself as a beach person. Then again, I'm mostly used to Lake Michigan beaches in unbearably humid July weather. This time, I was at a real beach. Clean white sand. No rocks. Clear water. Spectacular views. Hundreds of people. And not to mention the nearly perfect weather (ok... it was perfect!).
We staked out a spot with our towel, and proceeded to jump right into the water. Thankfully, we found some other students from the group and left our stuff more securely with them. Some of us went for a jog along the whole beach (chariots of fire style), admiring the beach and other 'views.' Locals were out sunbathing, playing volleyball, kicking soccer balls around, and just having fun. Little children were also running around, some completely naked. At least two sand castle pros were applying their trade near the back of the beach, away from encroaching tides that had significantly reduced the beach size since morning.
Inspired by the locals, we borrowed an otherwise unused soccer ball from a woman. We collected students from our group and played 'monkey in the middle,' where you kick the ball around to avoid the 'monkey' from touching. I got a chance to show off my soccer skills (not) and held my own in the friendly competition. This went on for more than an hour.
After lounging on my towel and getting some sun, some of us walked up and down the whole beach again. It gave us an opportunity to really appreciate the beauty of our surroundings one more time. Undoubtedly, one of the nicest beaches I have visited ever.
With the sun getting low in the sky, we agreed it was time to pack up. We walked back to the hostel (barefoot) and stopped for ice cream along the way. Near the main avenue was some outdoor concert; the music was some flamenco and hip hop combo. For whatever the occasion, the street was filled with people and we decided to follow the avenue as a detour to the hostel.
We were left on our own for dinner. Rejoining the group after the beach visit, we went back tour favorite pintxos place Goiz-Argi from earlier. Splitting the preferred shrimp pintxo again, I also went to another place across the street to at least get another opinion. Still, Goiz-Argi was the best.
To complement our dinner, some Basque wine (same offered at Goiz-Argi)  and sandwich ingredients purchased from a grocery nearby.

Sunday was out departure. For many, this meant recovery from some drinking the night before. One last brief walk through the nearly empty old town was in order before we left on the bus.
We had one stop left on our trip: the small city of Burgos. On the outskirts of the greater Madrid area, Burgos is a small city known for only one thing: the cathedral. Once again, we went to visit another cathedral. A small group of us went to find lunch first. Without even a section in my most-excellent guidebook, we were truly on our own for lunch, we eventually found a small restaurant with outdoor seating near the plaza mayor. For some reason our waiter seemed not to understand our Spanish, and we had some good Spanish speakers among us. The owner served us instead and we received more prompt service. He also helped us split the bill among each of us, requiring extra attention and time to write the separate bills. As we negotiated the food orders at the counter, we encountered a Spanish couple who helped us with our Spanish to get the order straight. The woman then asked us (in Spanish) if we were part of the Santiago de Compostela, the famous religious pilgrimage that passes through Burgos. Known as 'The Way' the pilgrimage spans all of northern Spain, attracting thousands over the course of the year,

Plaza Mayor of Burgos

Main avenue in Burgos (FYI my camera ran out of battery here)

Next, the cathedral. With the entrance fee, an audio guide was included. The side entrance where the self guided tour began was modest by most standards. Entering, we we immediately greeted by the seemingly frigid interior temperature. Above 80 F and sunny outside, this was quite a shock. Beyond the usual cathedral traits, this church was more 'cramped' in a sense sincerely there were no wide open spaces. Each chapel was beautifully decorated, but even the main church and altar area was smaller than one would expect. By contrast, the whole cathedral complex is very large. My favorite distinct feature of the cathedral was the clock bells inside the church. Hearing them chime the hour, the bells are rung by the mechanical lever of a mannequin statue with an opening mouth. Almost had a Disney like quality, except the cathedral was built hundreds of years ago. Following the route to the cloister, we enjoyed the open windows overlooking the courtyard. Most importantly, we enjoyed the warm breezes and sunlight from outside. We finished outside with a view of the main entrance, enhanced by the main bell towers.
Though it is hard to point out new distinct features of the cathedrals I've visited, this cathedral could crack my top 10 favorites by being so out of the way and, really, the only significant thing in the city.
Finding a washroom in a parking garage (I only mention because it was nice... and in a parking garage) we returned to the bus. Arriving a little early, the ESN coordinators gave me a big hug given my previous incident of being late. Before we left, some of the other travelers asked amusingly if 'Miguel Frances' was here. With such a large group, I will give them the benefit that they probably didn't know me from the beginning.
Still a few hours from Madrid, we watched the movie 'Limitless' on the bus, only in Spanish and no English subtitles.
With the sun getting lower, the countryside was just as beautiful. A vast improvement over central Indiana any day.
We returned to Madrid with enough light outside.

Overall, ESN trips have always proved interesting, both for sights seen and the oddities of traveling with dozens of other students. Going with my best friend Dario and meeting others made the trip worth everything. Cross off the famous Guggenheim museum and one of the best beaches in he world; how could the trip have been bad? Combined with the Barcelona trip, the ESN trips go down as my favorites in all of Spain!


 PS: Here are some more random pictures from San Sebastian!

"Looks like I'll have to jump!"

"I just call them pointy head guys" in Sevilla

Beautiful Sevilla!

The final destination of my trip would certainly not prove to be the least of my tour de force. Admittedly, I came into my trip to Sevilla (spelled Seville stateside, for some reason I do not know) almost completely unprepared. My only reservation was at my hostel, which was changeable with little lost. No guidebook. No prior research. Nothing specific to see. So, my reason for going: the famous festivities for Samana Santa, the Holy Week of Easter.
The celebrations are known world round. I would later learn, for a permanent population of 700,000, more than a million tourists visit Sevilla over the course of the Holy Week. The celebrations are renowned for the daily processions through the streets. More on that later.
It was enough to convince me to add one final leg to my already tiring journey.

Friday was a true test of transportation. My flight left Vienna at 7:00 am on Iberia airlines and I was lucky the first airport bus from the train station near my hostel left at 5:00, giving me enough time. The Vienna airport wins the award for most confusing airport layout, with many turns and level changes that separate you by section before getting to security. On the upside, the security lines are short and you get almost personal service as security helps sort your items. I would place them above the Polish security because the Pols were dressed in ugly green uniforms.
I was lucky to purchase my breakfast at the airport and not on the plane, where all food and beverages were for sale. There was one food left to try in Vienna: topfenstrudel. With some weird apple soda I bought for the heck of it, twas a sufficient meal for the flight.
Best part of the flight: I was the only one in my three person aisle. Stretching out for a comfortable position, I actually slept for most of the flight.

Arriving in Madrid was like arriving in a ghost town. The normally prompt Cercanias trains (which I caught at the airport because my arrival gate was close enough) were all running terribly slow. Also, all trains were 'corto' (short); basically running double the time and half the capacity. The Madrid streets on the cloudy day were the emptiest I had seen. It took me a minute to figure out why etchings were so quiet. Maybe it should have taken me less time to figure things out, but I had been traveling a lot and this was the most unfamiliar Madrid had ever looked. Anyway, it was Good Friday, one of the holiest days of the Easter calendar. In the catholic dominant country of Spain, this was a national day off.

I returned to my dark apartment, obviously the first person back in a long time. The French couple was in Portugal, the Mexican girl was back home in Mexico, the Canadian was touring southern Spain, and I was doing my thing. As I looked up train schedules, only two hours were spent back at home.

A short commuter train ride later, I had my ticket to Sevilla leaving from the Puerta de Atocha train station. Walking from the terminal to my train, I was mesmerized by the lines of elegant high speed trains awaiting departure. For my ride, I was going in style with by Ave train. The fastest trains in Spain, they cut an eight hour bus ride down to two hours by traveling more than 250 km/hr.
Assuming a seat at the window in my aisle, I waited to see if the train was full enough to prompt my move. When someone came to take my seat, I put on my best 'confused American' impersonation possible to keep the seat. Well, it didn't work so I moved to the aisle.
So far, the Ave train is the nicest I've taken so far (spanning trains in the USA, Switzerland, France, Poland, and Austria). Though the Austrian RailJet trains were newer, the Ave experience was better.

The two and a half hour journey through the diverse Spanish countryside was accompanied by a movie. For everyone's enjoyment, headphones were distributed for the movie in little plastic canisters (instant souvenir). Though the movie has been reviewed as one of the worst ever made, the ride was smooth and my connection to my multimedia devices was not interrupted with the presence of wall outlets in each seat.

Two hours later, I was walking the streets of Sevilla.

Finding my hostel, my next objective was to find the street processions. I made my way to the river, following the crowds. As the grey clouds never really passed, a slight drizzle started. My belief was that the processions had been cancelled, just as the hostel attendant had predicted. Though initially unsure, my premonition was confined by checking the Samana Santa twitter feed.

None the less, I was had not given up on my walking tour of the city. Easier said than done. The streets of Sevilla are some of the hardest to navigate. As I would learn, many of the short and narrow streets actually have multiple names and do not appear on maps. After some walking, I ended up at the cathedral of Sevilla. My goal then was finding my way back to the hostel, only a few hundred meters as the crow flies. Embarking down a street, I tried to always keep the cathedral behind me, looking at the prominent tower, the tallest in the city. Making a few turns, I quickly lost sight of the cathedral as I entered the historic Santa Cruz neighborhood. With a multitude of small streets, I believed my track was accurate. Checking my map, I believed the main street was the next turn. To my surprise, I had returned to the cathedral; a full circle. This goes as a first, going thought a complete circle. I reserved myself to taking the main streets that tripled the shortest journey possible. Still, probably less distance than I covered wandering lost.
Tapas bar hopping provided my dinner, especially after finding a bar with Alhambra beer (my favorite in Spain) on tap. Brief note on beer; the main beer here is Cruzcampo (literal translation 'cross field'). Overall, Cruzcampo is better than Mahou, the main Madrid beer. Alhambra is my favorite; brewed in Granada, it is easier to find here in the south of Spain than north.
I happened to doze off in the hostel after dinner, waking up around midnight. So much for doing anything that evening. The long day of constant travel must have finally gotten to me. Still, this set me up for an early day of sightseeing the next day.

So, I really have not talked about the city so far. And for good reason, because Saturday was the best day to walk. With a predicted high of 70 F with sunny skies, this was the first I could walk around a city without a jacket!

My sunrise tour began at the Gardens de Murillo. The sandy pathway still wet from the the rains last night, the ambiance of the park made up for everything. The smell of eucalyptus trees wafted through the air. Most plants were in full bloom, bringing out purple and yellow colors among the green bushes. Orange trees were flowering. The walk was complemented by fountains and colorfully tiled walls.
My destination was the Plaza de Espana. Approaching the structure from the side, I was instantly amazed by its presence. By far, the most beautiful building I have seen this journey. With the early sunlight, the south tower was properly illuminated with the remaining parts caught in the glare. It would take much too long describing the beauty of this building, so I'll just include a lot of pictures.

Interesting facts, the building was built was built for the Americas exposition in the early 1900s as Spain's representative building. At the foot of the building are 49 "benches" for the major cities of Spain. Though the building is not as old, they certainly out did themselves making the Plaza. I concluded this section if my walk by admiring the surrounding park. Beautiful, of course, many runners were out enjoying the ideal climate.

"Benches" of Spanish cities.

Surrounding park.

Sufficiently amazed by the morning walk, I made it back to the hostel for the free walking tour. Having previous success with free walking tours (ahem... free vodka...), I gave it a try. Meeting only one other person at the hostel, Adam from Australia  we were lead by a tour guide to the cathedral to find a large group. Meeting our Polish (yep) guide for Sevilla, our two hour tour tour included viewing the cathedral exterior, several of the smaller churches, the river, more parks, and then finishing at the Plaza de Espana. It was worth returning to the plaza to get a better view with the sun. Met some nice people along the way, including two other Americans and many Australians.

Most of us agreed to have lunch at the tour's conclusion. The tour guide (very nice and informative) recommended a place near the city center. As we walked, it was hard to notice the viewing platforms for processions. Though taking various routs, the processions all pass through the main avenue and then the cathedral. In anticipation, viewing stands are erected and seat reservations made months in advance. Not knowing the costs involved, the stands are the viewing areas for the well off of Spain.

Viewing stands.

The restaurant recommended by our guide turned out to be 'the company' establishment. Though the food was good, the prices were a tad high. Funny thing, I was one of the most proficient Spanish speakers in the group. After talking, the remaining group of me, Adam and a few other Aussies, a Swede, a Dutch girl, Frenchman, and Thai guy, agreed to seek out some of the processions after lunch.
As with previous excursions, we were attracted to large groups of people lining the streets. Some tv cameras also awaited in anticipation of something. Finding an open section of street, we did not need wait long for the procession to arrive. At the front were priests carrying crosses and waving incense. Behind was the main attraction, long columns of hooded persons. Referred to as brotherhoods, these people march through the streets. Hundreds of pointy head covered individuals carrying a variety of items including crosses, ornamented poles, and banners. When you could hear the music, the main attraction had arrived. Massive altars would process down the street, shaking in step to the many human carriers underneath. The altar carriers are distinct by their turban headgear, and also seen drinking outside the bars after their march. The particular altar for this march was one of Jesus carrying his cross, a common theme for most. Solemn music from a marching band immediately behind added to the depth of the moment.

Not waning to get caught, we quickly cut through and joined the afternoon tour.
The tour was nice, once again, and also for free. A few hours later, we ended up at the same bar from the first tour. This at least placed us close to the main avenue for the processions.

Still keeping a small group of us together, we once again sought out more processions. We mixed up our vantage positions around the main avenue. Crossways were strictly policed, but we managed to get a perfect view stuck in a crowd just as an altar passed. We (four Aussies, a Dutch girl, French guy, Thai guy, Swedish guy) kept on moving, eventually finding a few spots just behind the low grandstands. This was the next hour or so for us until we became hungry. A quick stop back at our hostel then prompted a dinner excursion.

We sought out a reasonably priced tapas bar close to our evening destination: a flamenco show. Flamenco, of course, is the traditional Spanish dance with origins in the Andalusia region of Spain. We enjoyed a relaxing dinner eating outside and talking. A tv facing the patio featured live footage of the evening processions. We were lucky to split the 140+ € bill among us. More interestingly, with my Spanish skill, I had to negotiate with the bartender over drinks we did not order.
Ignoring some of the more tourist-centric shows, we opted to find something more authentic. Free flamenco shows in most bars are very common. It also holds true to the tradition of the art. While the dance is distinctive, the flamenco began with people playing guitar and singing about life events. It fits perfectly into a bar setting: small and personal. Getting some drinks (my goodness a 7€ tap beer if I knew it would that cost that much I would have told my Australian friend not to get any), we enjoyed two 15-minute shows on the hour.

As usual, one guy was playing the guitar the whole time. Another guy was the singer. His clapping was the loudest, syncing to the rythem of the guitar. A woman (of course in a flamenco dress) was seated with the two on separate chairs right next to each other on the stage. The singer, in a powerful voice, belted his song to fill the bar. Every patron was transfixed on the stage. After the song (trust me, I could not understand him...) the woman began dancing, typified by tapping her feet very rapidly. The movements were both rigid and fluid: pauses of rigid foot tapping with twirls and body movements. A true Andalusia experience.

Easter Sunday. Yes, I made a promise to my parents to attend Easter mass, wherever I happened to be. My goal was to attend mass at the Sevilla cathedral, the definitive religious place in the city. I woke up with time to spare, having been told that masses were at noon. Wanting to make my to the cathedral early anyway, I left the hostel after checking out. I mistakenly trusted my navigation skills to get to the church through the labyrinth of city streets instead of taking the long way around the city.
Take a short cut I said. It would be quicker I said.
Naturally, I got lost again. To my luck, I made it to the Plaza Mayor with its unique mushroom shaped canopy. I also saw one of the tour members from the day before and said hi. Finally catching a glimpse of the cathedral tower, I started walking toward just as the bells signaled the start of mass. So much for that noon start.

Plaza Mayor

Many tourists were present inside, viewing the large cathedral for free. Many seats were taken, but I found a seat on the 'wings' before all were taken. I lucked out in this respect, because the presider was also the archbishop of Andalusia  The best seats were occupied by well dressed locals and I sat with the tourists, many of them probably just there to experience something different.
The ambiance of the old cathedral was unique. Even as bats strafed the altar on occasion, the choir music reverberated through the whole building. I grew to appreciate the size of the cathedral, even from my seat with a restricted view.
I mean, if you had to say where you attended Easter mass, the cathedral of Sevilla with the bishop sounds good to me.

Cathedral of Sevilla

Tower of Sevilla

Main entrance

I got some tapas for an early lunch and walked around more parts of the city. The Torre de Oro (tower of gold) was on my list of things to see. Too bad the admission price to enter was out of my pocket change range.

Torre de Oro

Thinking I could catch an off day to visit the city's more famous attractions with less crowds, the Cathedral (again, yes, because sections were closed off for mass) and the Alcazar, I was a little mistaken.
After a half hour wait to enter the Alcazar, I was blown away by the interior. Absolutely worth seeing. I went a little picture happy, with seemingly never ending gardens and mazes of ornate rooms. You could spend hours viewing the same thing from different perspectives to appreciate the details.

The tile patterns of the Alcazar are some of the most famous in Spain

I lucked out on visiting the cathedral again, finding a short line during the traditional late Spanish lunch time. More well lit for the tourists, I followed the abbreviated self guided tour of the cathedral highlights. First, the tomb of Christopher Columbus. Not a modest fellow, the tomb is more than 8 feet tall and carried by statue pallbearers. From my pictorial excitement at the Alcazar, my camera battery ran out at this time. Left with my potato camera of a phone, I proceeded throughout the cathedral. Beyond the amazing artwork and priceless relics in the treasury, the highlight was climbing the cathedral tower. Taking the 35 ramps to the top, the views of the white buildings was something to behold.

Christopher Columbus was not a modest guy....

Enjoying the long way back to the hostel and a late lunch (tapas of grilled veggies with goat cheese and sausage with chimichurri sauce), I made my back to the train station. Just my luck, it started raining half way there. Wanting to get the next train to Madrid, the cheapest tickets for all trains that day were booked. I would have to pay more to leave on the next train in three hours. My luck for not booking a return ticket first in Madrid. With all buses having departed or not leaving for another several hours, the opportunity cost of staying in Sevilla any longer was worth the ticket price.
Taking the Ave back, I got back to Madrid just before midnight. Wanting to catch the next metro to Sol, I used my month pass to have it rejected. Turns out it was just past midnight... On April 1. So I was a minute too late. Buying my ticket, I appreciated sleeping in my own bed that evening.

Overall, Sevilla is the most beautiful city I have visited thus far. It has a perfect mix of Spanish and Moorish architecture  allowing one to see these unique stiles which have become representative of Spain. Sevilla is a completely representative city of Spain: cathedrals, famous bull fights, Flamenco dance, white walled houses, two football clubs with a noted rivalry  and a climate suitable for expansive gardens that only add to the beauty. By far the most romantic city in Spain, it would be a perfect place to take someone special for a vacation.