Polska! Part 2: Warsaw.

Red Squirrel! 

Some would say, "Why visit Warsaw after Krakow; Krakow is the nicer city!" Well, my trip to Poland would be incomplete without visiting its historic capital!
The largest city, Warsaw is a symbol of the real Poland, having been rebuilt and still showing signs of the war that witnessed its destruction 70 years ago.

Arriving at the underground main train station, I only had to repeat my normal routine: get a map and find my hostel. Getting a map from the train information (where the only-Polish speaking attendant understood 'map'), I walked out into the main city center. Immediately, I was greeted by the imposing Palace of Culture and Science. The tall communist-style building is the most prominent in the Polish skyline. A 'gift' from the Soviets built during occupation (I would later learn), the building is one-of-a-kind and now encompasses several theaters and an opera house.

Finding my hostel on the famous Nowy Swiat street, a climb of over 100 stairs brought me to the stylish hostel on the top floor.

Nowy Swiat

Equipped with a map with recommendations from the hostel staff, there was not a moment to lose as I started walking down the street. The picturesque Nowy Swiat (only passable by taxis and buses) hosts many significant monuments of the city. A statue of Nicklaus Copernicus, the main gate of the Warsaw University, and the statue of Jesus leading the way with his cross lined the street. Getting a meat (just meat... not any particular kind I believe) and horseradish sandwich at a recommended deli, the street bends once you enter the Old Town. Largely rebuilt after the war, the town is partly surrounded by an original brick wall and features the old royal palace in the main plaza. With the palace closed, I walked around the town quickly as the below freezing temperatures and light snowfall started getting to me. A cup of tea from a coffee shop only helped me overcome the cold for around 30 minutes after I got back outside.

Nicklaus Copernicus

My favorite candid photo of the trip: a girl giving the accordion player some money

Recommended to return down a different street, I improvised my way back. After navigating a small park with a large statue of the goddess Nike, I walked past the large national opera house on my way to another John Paul II plaza (hey, he was one good Pope). Admiring his statue and the other post war architecture, I found a statue park featuring a large fountain (shut off for the winter). The park ended at a large square featuring the eternal flame of the unknown soldier and a large memorial cross. Really getting cold now, I made my back to the hostel quickly.

National Stadium

With a little bit of sun left, one thing I had to see was the new National Stadium. Built for the EURO 2012 tournament, the impressively modern stadium lies across the river. Walking across the main bridge, I was impressed to see the exterior lit up for the night. Situated in its own park with open views from most parts of the city, the metal mesh exterior siding is illuminated in red and white lights in different patterns. Finding the park gates open, I got closer for a better view. Finding some guards, I asked about a look inside as they stood by an open gate. Telling me the stadium was closed, I made my back to the hostel by street tram (knowing my hostel was near the National Museum as a reference destination) to avoid the cold.

Now trying to find dinner, I ended up at a Polish food restaurant chain. You know, the kind that tries to be overly authentic to the point of dressing their waitresses in slightly revealing 'authentic' Polish dresses. Still, with most places closed for Sunday, a bowl of sausage and pea soup with some warm fruit compote is exactly what I needed to warm up. Interestingly enough, the group next to me was speaking in English talking about some environmental conference and one of them was a Native American from Alaska.

My final stop that evening was something authentically Eastern European: vodka bars. Not leaving too much to the imagination, these are the places to order vodka shots and simple Polish bar food. Almost too similar to the rustic tapas bars in Spain, I visited the most famous bar in Warsaw. With enough people around the semicircular counter, a shot of vodka was enough to say I went there. I passed on the most popular dish being served: herring in oil.

My roommates that evening were a group of Pols (I believe), slightly older, and only stayed that night. I never talked with them.

Sleeping in a little, the next day began my true tour of Warsaw. Enjoying breakfast while watching some Polish daytime television (something like 'The People's Court'), I had two hours to kill before the free walking tour at 11.

While at least sunny, temperatures had not improved; at or around 0 C when I left.

I walked back to the Palace of Science and Culture (let's just call it the tower) to get a better view in the daytime. The bulky building is decorated with statues to the working man, in true communist style. The inside was a little unimpressive, but walking around the exterior was worth the second visit. From there, a long walk for a brief stop at the Warsaw Uprising museum. Free that Monday, the museum chronicles the Warsaw uprising in WWII, the resistance, and Poland's involvement in the war. Even for the little time spent, the museum is 'actively' designed and holds a lot of information presented in an interesting manner. Some items that caught my attention were the diverse gun displays, mockup of an American B-25 bomber, film footage of the resistance fighting in a ruined Warsaw, and Pope John Paul's speech memorializing the conflict.

Uprising Museum

Bus 178 saved me the walk to the old town, where the walking tour began. Organized by the Orange Umbrella tour group, the completely FREE tour began just after 11:00 am with a dozen of us present. Over two and a half hours, we were guided all though the old town, new town, and some of the surrounding parts. Some highlights were a visit inside the cathedral, the market square with mermaid statue, and the restaurant where the Dali Lama drank tea.

Old Town, on a good day!

Follow the orange umbrella...

Mermaid statue

The tour guide (a licensed one, he pointed out) also dove into the culture of Poland. You know what this means: vodka history. The Pols actually invented vodka (much to the contrary of the Russians) and are considered to have the best vodka in the world. Maybe Russians just have better advertising. Of course, when talking about vodka, drinking vodka must be involved. Holding this discussion at a cafe, we were all offered vodka... for FREE! Accompanied by some bread with schmaltz and a pickle, it was quite an offer on a free tour. Just remember, never turn down free vodka when offered and always drink it straight.

Getting close to mid afternoon, lunch was my next priority. Taking a bus, I crossed the main street into one of the original sections of the city post reconstruction. Continuing the Milkbar tradition, my lunch stop was the Milkbar Bambino. Nothing Italian about this place, this is the real communist deal. My tour guide described these places in the best way. Walking in, you are confronted by a large menu, written only in Polish. An old mean-looking lady sits at a cash machine to take your order and she usually does not speak English. From the guide's experience, tourists would often just pick out random things from the menu; food combinations not even the most adventurous culinary critic would order. So, the attendants are used to changing orders. My turn in line, I told her (in polish) that I did not speak polish. She responded if I liked tomato soup, which I said yes. A woman in line asked in English if I needed any help. Keeping my options open, the attendant and the woman discussed as new dishes were added to my bill. Paying and taking my receipt, you waited at a counter looking into the kitchen. There, cooks who probably look like your mother or grandmother hustle around large pots on a large stove, a utilitarian layout suited for feeding an army. Not overly adventurous in the end, the dishes I collected were pasta in tomato soup with a main dish of fried pork, potatoes, and carrots. In the similar style to the polish restaurants in Chicago, the food was simple and very good. Cafeteria style seating once again and the place was always taking in new customers. I believe milkbars get some government money to continue their tradition, so the price was only $6 for a filling meal.

Milkbar Bambino

Good luck...

Cashier

Counter

Dining Room

Good Polish food!

Chopin Monument

The majority of the afternoon was then spent walking around the monuments and museums at the Park Lazienki. I first wanted to find the statue of Frederic Chopin, the city's favorite son. With his part of the park closed for renovation, I probably trespassed through some trees to get my picture of his large monument.

Polish Summer Palace

Red squirrels in the park!

The highlight was the Royal Summer Palace on the isle. In the heart of the park, the palace is a very well maintained museum with beautiful views of the park lake. Immediate outside, were large crowds of birds, particularly ducks. I would have named the park 'Duck Park' if I could. Among the birds, were several stunning peacocks. Everyone was taking pictures of them. One of the birds was 'posing' on the steps of the palace; you could not even pay a bird to do that normally. I paid my ticket and entered the museum, using protective foot bags not to ruin the floor with my boots. A number of tours were in the museum and I kind of tagged along with a Spanish speaking tour, understanding most. Nothing overly amazing, the palace was very nice if a bit small.

This bird is making bank...

Walking back and using a public washroom along the way (only significant because you have to pay 2 Zl to use or a big, burly, Polish guy will beat you up), I tried finding a famous bakery on my map to no avail. I took my time walking through this communist reconstructed section of the city with architecture of the time. I returned to the hostel seeking the most important thing on my mind: paczkis! I was directed to a famous bakery close by, ordering a few and eating them all after a long day of walking.

Best Paczki place in Warsaw!

Bar hopping for part of my dinner, I was unimpressed by the food selections at even some of the better bars in Warsaw. At one place, I got a little adventurous and ordered pork jelly. Yep. Nothing to hide with the imagination with that name: pork in gelatin. The type of food that not even drinking helps improve, I ate as much as possible until the normal bread slice provided was consumed. I eventually found a coffee shop with sandwiches.
The evening finished by chatting with the hostel staff (all like my age) and some of the hostel guests in the kitchen area. One of the guests I had met on the tour earlier and one from Norway, I believe the first person I've met from Norway. My early flight forced my time talking.

Another unadventurous trip to the airport followed, taking a bus free of charge (well, not really...). The Chopin airport is nice with some of the most efficient security procedures I've seen, where security staff help you organize your items. I got stuck behind a large team dressed in Polish national attire; not the football team though because they played that evening in Warsaw.

Overall, Warsaw is a contrast to the 'homey' Krakow.

Y U so Mad, bro?