Friday, February 8, 2013

Salamanca: the journey

Editor note: I am starting this on the train to Salamanca, so the content might be a little heavy about the journey there.

For my first journey outside Madrid (Toledo does not count), I decided to visit one of the most historic, but less traveled to, cities in Spain: Salamanca. Located northwest of Madrid, Salamanca is famous for two things: the best public plaza in Spain at Plaza Mayor and the University of Salamanca. For me, deciding to go here was mainly on a whim; I flipped through the pages of my guide book and ended up reading about Salamanca. Before I bought my tickets, I told my friends in the dorms of my plans. To my surprise, my friend Javier lives in Salamanca and travels back there every weekend. Offering to show me around, this effectively sold my trip.
I was happy to learn I could purchase tickets at the Leganes train station close to the university. I bought my tickets to depart Friday at 15:45 and return Sunday with Javier at 17:55. I allowed a small buffer with my ticket purchase because of my exam on Friday. Yes, I had an exam on Friday. My one class administered online through my home university scheduled an exam for us on a Friday. I mean, they do know that none of us have classes on Friday and had some travel arrangements made some time in advance. The rationale, so I believe, is because the Chinese New Year begins next week for those studying in China and taking the same course. Thus, they have the week off and the exam could only be then taken two weeks from now. After some waiting and much complaining, the test was scheduled for noon, allowing enough time for me to arrive at the train station.
My next goal was finding a room. Visiting a number of hostel websites that offer discounts for students, I was disappointed to find most of the well reviewed were completly booked. My options were ether less reviewed locations or more expensive ones. Not wanting to take a risk, I booked a hostel with private rooms, paying around double more than the cheapest option. Undoubtedly, I was taking a risk no matter where I book. I believe the room has a shared bathroom.

Friday morning was spent studying for the exam. This was accomplished with, actually, little disruption. The time of the moment forced me to concentrate. Meeting up with the other students to take the hour long exam worked out. The exam itself... did not go as well. Not to go too deeply into my academics, but the exam was difficult for everyone.
Finishing at 13:00, I needed to pack! Walking back to the dorms (a 10 minute walk), I switched my class materials for clothes in my backpack. To accompany my backpack was a shopping bag (because I need to get a small draw-string bag) with (yes) a fancy pair of shoes, my shower flip flops (for communal showers), a small towel, and a snack (bread stolen from the cafeteria). My speciality was trying to pack as few clothes as possible. Only needing two shirts, I brought one fancier shirt and a polyester shirt to wear back. I would rely heavily on my zippered sweatshirt and jacket for their durability.
Horfing down some lunch, I managed to depart at 14:15, allowing a hour to the train station and half an hour before the train departed. Three trains are necessary to travel to the Madrid Chamartin station. The first is the MetroSur to Leganes. Walking to the stop, I was able to catch the metro just as it arrived, after a little running. Next train was the Cercanias, the light rail system for local destinations. Just the same, I caught the train just as it arrived, although no running was required. Together, the two trains took around 35 minutes to arrive at Atocha, the largest train station in Madrid. Here, I would take my final train to then train station. Every local train stops at Atocha, so I had a few trains to chose from that would go to Chamartin. Knowing almost any train would work, I noticed one just about to depart and started running with a few others. Arriving just before the doors closed, I asked another person, in Spanish, if the train went to Chamartin. His answer of yes was reassuring just as the doors closed.
The Chamartin train station was just like an airport, I arrived 10 minutes ahead of schedule. I could only imagine if I had missed any one of those trains and probably arriving with only 10 minutes to spare. A few overpriced stores and some modern coffee shops occupied the majority of the terminal. Here, I would wait until the Salamanca platform was announced. Maybe not too surprised, the busiest cafe was a Burger King, though a few did appear to be related to local chains. I waited until the platform was announced and walked there with everyone else. I was surprised by the lack of security. Though I should have remembered my experience with Amtrak as even less secure.
Finding my seat, we departed on time.

The landscape of rural Spain is very unique. Starting off, close to the city is mostly a rolling hill desert. Low level trees consume much of the greenery. The hills increase in magnitude further out. Around half an hour into the journey, we were traveling through rocky hillside canyons. A few crystal clear blue rivers were at the bottom of the canyons. With some tallish grass, cattle and horse ranches started appearing. It must be wonderful for the livestock; the terrain is so varied and lush. Moving further away from the city, gray clouds turned to sunshine leaving Madrid. After an hour, we entered the hilly forest region. Trees along the hills grew in every direction possible. You could probably drive several hours without finding another city. A few small towns dotted the landscape; no more than a few houses along a central power line. Maybe a church. I don't know how they get any major services out here (like food).
I noticed some windmills. I like windmills.
After a few more minutes past the forest, we passed a small town still covered in a layer of snow. It might have been just a dusting, but we probably increased in altitude to the point where it was cold enough for snow. I found this surprising because of how warm it was back in Madrid. In the US, I doubt you can travel anywhere in an hour train and go from 60 degree temps to below freezing with such a gradual change in altitude.
An hour and half in, it actually did start snowing. Still a dusting by comparison, the train started to round a large valley. Visibility reduced considerably only to the other side of the Canyon/valley. The snow, though, reached a stagnation point when falling to the valley. Some up drafts from the canyon base were probably the cause. But the snow actually stopped. We did a 90 degree turn around this valley before continuing on to more rocky countryside.
We later entered more plain grass areas, suitable for farming. The train stopped at Avila, one of the towns mentioned in my tour book. I could see why it was mentioned: a good portion of the town is enclosed by castle walls. Large ones too. The sun shining on the town only made it look that more historic.
The next half hour was slightly less interesting. The terrain is flatter, almost Midwestern. Lush green farm fields are visible with larger hills in the background. The weather also improved. No more snow, just light clouds. When the sun broke through, the views were completly pristine. Gently rolling hills of farm fields complemented by short bushy trees. In the far distance, tall hills peaked with windmills.
The clouds added to the scenery. When the train tilted upward, you thought you could touch the clouds. They felt so close. Small, streaky, puffs.
There were a few times when we accelerated for some straight parts of the track. I think we passed some corn fields in the process. Even moving so fast, the countryside passed so slowly against the flat fields. Still, more interesting than Indiana.

I might as well publish this now. I am writing from my hostel in Salamanca. The room is nice, a single room with private bathroom for 21 eur. Not bad in my opinion.
I will write as my journey continues here.

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